How to take photos in burst mode, without vibration?





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I have a Canon EOS 1200D (Rebel T5) and a reflector telescope, and I want to take some photos of Jupiter with them.



If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.



This produce a lot of vibrations on the telescope, thus making motion blur.



Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.



How can I avoid that? Is there a way to prevent any movement of mechanical parts to take a burst?










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  • 1





    What shutter speeds are you using?

    – Hueco
    10 hours ago











  • Assuming your camera features Live View shooting, look for Silent LV Mode in the menu. Take a look at this question that I asked a little while ago about a pretty similar behavior on my Canon 80D. In particular, look at the discussion in the comments between bogl and me. This might help with your issue. Although I'm not using burst mode, so I don't know if this will resolve it for you.

    – Gern Blanston
    10 hours ago











  • I don't think the xx00D models have 'Silent LV' mode. I could be woefully out of date, though, as I haven't looked at one in years.

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago


















2















I have a Canon EOS 1200D (Rebel T5) and a reflector telescope, and I want to take some photos of Jupiter with them.



If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.



This produce a lot of vibrations on the telescope, thus making motion blur.



Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.



How can I avoid that? Is there a way to prevent any movement of mechanical parts to take a burst?










share|improve this question







New contributor




vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
















  • 1





    What shutter speeds are you using?

    – Hueco
    10 hours ago











  • Assuming your camera features Live View shooting, look for Silent LV Mode in the menu. Take a look at this question that I asked a little while ago about a pretty similar behavior on my Canon 80D. In particular, look at the discussion in the comments between bogl and me. This might help with your issue. Although I'm not using burst mode, so I don't know if this will resolve it for you.

    – Gern Blanston
    10 hours ago











  • I don't think the xx00D models have 'Silent LV' mode. I could be woefully out of date, though, as I haven't looked at one in years.

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago














2












2








2








I have a Canon EOS 1200D (Rebel T5) and a reflector telescope, and I want to take some photos of Jupiter with them.



If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.



This produce a lot of vibrations on the telescope, thus making motion blur.



Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.



How can I avoid that? Is there a way to prevent any movement of mechanical parts to take a burst?










share|improve this question







New contributor




vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












I have a Canon EOS 1200D (Rebel T5) and a reflector telescope, and I want to take some photos of Jupiter with them.



If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.



This produce a lot of vibrations on the telescope, thus making motion blur.



Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.



How can I avoid that? Is there a way to prevent any movement of mechanical parts to take a burst?







canon astrophotography motion-blur






share|improve this question







New contributor




vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question







New contributor




vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question






New contributor




vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked 11 hours ago









vsisvsis

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133




New contributor




vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






vsis is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








  • 1





    What shutter speeds are you using?

    – Hueco
    10 hours ago











  • Assuming your camera features Live View shooting, look for Silent LV Mode in the menu. Take a look at this question that I asked a little while ago about a pretty similar behavior on my Canon 80D. In particular, look at the discussion in the comments between bogl and me. This might help with your issue. Although I'm not using burst mode, so I don't know if this will resolve it for you.

    – Gern Blanston
    10 hours ago











  • I don't think the xx00D models have 'Silent LV' mode. I could be woefully out of date, though, as I haven't looked at one in years.

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago














  • 1





    What shutter speeds are you using?

    – Hueco
    10 hours ago











  • Assuming your camera features Live View shooting, look for Silent LV Mode in the menu. Take a look at this question that I asked a little while ago about a pretty similar behavior on my Canon 80D. In particular, look at the discussion in the comments between bogl and me. This might help with your issue. Although I'm not using burst mode, so I don't know if this will resolve it for you.

    – Gern Blanston
    10 hours ago











  • I don't think the xx00D models have 'Silent LV' mode. I could be woefully out of date, though, as I haven't looked at one in years.

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago








1




1





What shutter speeds are you using?

– Hueco
10 hours ago





What shutter speeds are you using?

– Hueco
10 hours ago













Assuming your camera features Live View shooting, look for Silent LV Mode in the menu. Take a look at this question that I asked a little while ago about a pretty similar behavior on my Canon 80D. In particular, look at the discussion in the comments between bogl and me. This might help with your issue. Although I'm not using burst mode, so I don't know if this will resolve it for you.

– Gern Blanston
10 hours ago





Assuming your camera features Live View shooting, look for Silent LV Mode in the menu. Take a look at this question that I asked a little while ago about a pretty similar behavior on my Canon 80D. In particular, look at the discussion in the comments between bogl and me. This might help with your issue. Although I'm not using burst mode, so I don't know if this will resolve it for you.

– Gern Blanston
10 hours ago













I don't think the xx00D models have 'Silent LV' mode. I could be woefully out of date, though, as I haven't looked at one in years.

– Michael C
9 hours ago





I don't think the xx00D models have 'Silent LV' mode. I could be woefully out of date, though, as I haven't looked at one in years.

– Michael C
9 hours ago










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















5














In theory, live view mode should ensure the mirror doesn't flip, if you don't use quick mode autofocus.



In practice, though, your camera is a very cheap one, that has probably an integrated shutter/mirror motor, so I assume the mirror actuates the same time the shutter actuates. So, if you use a burst, unfortunately the mirror probably actuates between images in the burst.



Sorry I don't have a source stating the integration of shutter/mirror motor for this particular camera, but at least https://www.lmscope.com/en/Digitalkamera_Vibrationen_en.html says about cheap cameras:




Lower priced SLR cameras generally do not have separate motors that drive the mirror and the shutter. If the shutter is operated in Live View mode, the mirror flips down and then up again. All this flipping shakes the camera and thus causes (sometimes significant) vibrations that may seriously compromise the image quality. To reduce the impact of mirror slap, most models come equipped with a special function called mirror lock-up (mirror pre-release). When the mirror lock-up function is enabled, the mirror is flipped up well before the shutter opens (a time interval between 2 and 8 seconds can be selected). This short pause allows the mirror-induced mechanical vibrations to die down before exposing the film so that they do not affect the image quality.





share|improve this answer
























  • Oh, I forgot to mention that. Yes, the mirror moves between photos in burst mode. I've found nothing in the menu/settings to prevent that. Probably you're right about the motor.

    – vsis
    9 hours ago













  • @vsis Does the mirror cycle between frames even when in Live view (and with AF turned off)?

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago











  • @juhist If the camera is capable of mirror lockup, then it needs separate motors for mirror and shutter. The same is true of any electronically controlled shutter. Your quote is more applicable to many low end film era SLRs than digital bodies. To the best of my knowledge, none of the major manufacturer carried that over into low end digital. Nikon did continue to use the same motor to actuate the mirror and stop down the aperture with the D40 → D3x00 series. But even those models have separate motors for the electronically controlled focal plane shutters.

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago











  • @MichaelC, Yes. It does it in live view, and no autofocus. I use manual mode to take photos with the telescope.

    – vsis
    9 hours ago











  • >Applicable models: all EOS DSLR cameras except for 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D. eos-magazine.com/articles/EOS_feature/camera-mirror-lockup.html @juhist , you were right. This camera can't lock the mirror. So, it's impossible to take a burst without vibrations.

    – vsis
    6 hours ago



















5















If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.




Typically, the order of operations is: mirror flips, shutter opens. This is regardless of shooting mode. Using Live View or Mirror Lock-Up changes the rules a bit and takes the mirror flip out of the equation, but the shutter is still there.




Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.




This is the shutter. If you want to have the absolute minimum amount of vibration, you need to:




  • Use single shot mode

  • Use Mirror Lock Up

  • Have a rock solid tripod

  • Use a remote shutter release

  • Hit the shutter release for the mirror to flip and wait a few seconds

  • Release the shutter to take the shot


If this single pass of the shutter opening and closing is causing you to have camera shake, then you may want to look into a different camera, one that has an electronic shutter instead of a mechanical one.






share|improve this answer


























  • Well, currently I'm using single shot mode and shutter timer, until I have a remote shutter control. So I don't have motion blur in that way, although it takes its time to take, for example, 500 photos of Jupiter. Because of that, it would be nice to have more photos in less time, without compromising quality.

    – vsis
    9 hours ago











  • @Hueco That's what you get for buying superb analog gear! ;)

    – flolilo
    9 hours ago











  • @vsis Forgive me the question, but why do you need 500 pictures of Jupiter? I would take 1, perhaps two, then check them, and if they are good enough, I would stop (at least until Jupiter and/or its atmosphere had sufficient time to move around a bit). To me, making 500 (or even 20, for that matter) roughly identical shots of some (roughly) inanimate object seems like overkill in post-production.

    – flolilo
    9 hours ago











  • @flolilo DR is very much an issue in astrophotography if one wants to preserve the different colors of different stars.

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago






  • 1





    @vsis ah, your question wasn't clear to me before. So, you are needing to take how many images within what sort of timeframe?

    – Hueco
    9 hours ago












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2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes








2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









5














In theory, live view mode should ensure the mirror doesn't flip, if you don't use quick mode autofocus.



In practice, though, your camera is a very cheap one, that has probably an integrated shutter/mirror motor, so I assume the mirror actuates the same time the shutter actuates. So, if you use a burst, unfortunately the mirror probably actuates between images in the burst.



Sorry I don't have a source stating the integration of shutter/mirror motor for this particular camera, but at least https://www.lmscope.com/en/Digitalkamera_Vibrationen_en.html says about cheap cameras:




Lower priced SLR cameras generally do not have separate motors that drive the mirror and the shutter. If the shutter is operated in Live View mode, the mirror flips down and then up again. All this flipping shakes the camera and thus causes (sometimes significant) vibrations that may seriously compromise the image quality. To reduce the impact of mirror slap, most models come equipped with a special function called mirror lock-up (mirror pre-release). When the mirror lock-up function is enabled, the mirror is flipped up well before the shutter opens (a time interval between 2 and 8 seconds can be selected). This short pause allows the mirror-induced mechanical vibrations to die down before exposing the film so that they do not affect the image quality.





share|improve this answer
























  • Oh, I forgot to mention that. Yes, the mirror moves between photos in burst mode. I've found nothing in the menu/settings to prevent that. Probably you're right about the motor.

    – vsis
    9 hours ago













  • @vsis Does the mirror cycle between frames even when in Live view (and with AF turned off)?

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago











  • @juhist If the camera is capable of mirror lockup, then it needs separate motors for mirror and shutter. The same is true of any electronically controlled shutter. Your quote is more applicable to many low end film era SLRs than digital bodies. To the best of my knowledge, none of the major manufacturer carried that over into low end digital. Nikon did continue to use the same motor to actuate the mirror and stop down the aperture with the D40 → D3x00 series. But even those models have separate motors for the electronically controlled focal plane shutters.

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago











  • @MichaelC, Yes. It does it in live view, and no autofocus. I use manual mode to take photos with the telescope.

    – vsis
    9 hours ago











  • >Applicable models: all EOS DSLR cameras except for 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D. eos-magazine.com/articles/EOS_feature/camera-mirror-lockup.html @juhist , you were right. This camera can't lock the mirror. So, it's impossible to take a burst without vibrations.

    – vsis
    6 hours ago
















5














In theory, live view mode should ensure the mirror doesn't flip, if you don't use quick mode autofocus.



In practice, though, your camera is a very cheap one, that has probably an integrated shutter/mirror motor, so I assume the mirror actuates the same time the shutter actuates. So, if you use a burst, unfortunately the mirror probably actuates between images in the burst.



Sorry I don't have a source stating the integration of shutter/mirror motor for this particular camera, but at least https://www.lmscope.com/en/Digitalkamera_Vibrationen_en.html says about cheap cameras:




Lower priced SLR cameras generally do not have separate motors that drive the mirror and the shutter. If the shutter is operated in Live View mode, the mirror flips down and then up again. All this flipping shakes the camera and thus causes (sometimes significant) vibrations that may seriously compromise the image quality. To reduce the impact of mirror slap, most models come equipped with a special function called mirror lock-up (mirror pre-release). When the mirror lock-up function is enabled, the mirror is flipped up well before the shutter opens (a time interval between 2 and 8 seconds can be selected). This short pause allows the mirror-induced mechanical vibrations to die down before exposing the film so that they do not affect the image quality.





share|improve this answer
























  • Oh, I forgot to mention that. Yes, the mirror moves between photos in burst mode. I've found nothing in the menu/settings to prevent that. Probably you're right about the motor.

    – vsis
    9 hours ago













  • @vsis Does the mirror cycle between frames even when in Live view (and with AF turned off)?

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago











  • @juhist If the camera is capable of mirror lockup, then it needs separate motors for mirror and shutter. The same is true of any electronically controlled shutter. Your quote is more applicable to many low end film era SLRs than digital bodies. To the best of my knowledge, none of the major manufacturer carried that over into low end digital. Nikon did continue to use the same motor to actuate the mirror and stop down the aperture with the D40 → D3x00 series. But even those models have separate motors for the electronically controlled focal plane shutters.

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago











  • @MichaelC, Yes. It does it in live view, and no autofocus. I use manual mode to take photos with the telescope.

    – vsis
    9 hours ago











  • >Applicable models: all EOS DSLR cameras except for 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D. eos-magazine.com/articles/EOS_feature/camera-mirror-lockup.html @juhist , you were right. This camera can't lock the mirror. So, it's impossible to take a burst without vibrations.

    – vsis
    6 hours ago














5












5








5







In theory, live view mode should ensure the mirror doesn't flip, if you don't use quick mode autofocus.



In practice, though, your camera is a very cheap one, that has probably an integrated shutter/mirror motor, so I assume the mirror actuates the same time the shutter actuates. So, if you use a burst, unfortunately the mirror probably actuates between images in the burst.



Sorry I don't have a source stating the integration of shutter/mirror motor for this particular camera, but at least https://www.lmscope.com/en/Digitalkamera_Vibrationen_en.html says about cheap cameras:




Lower priced SLR cameras generally do not have separate motors that drive the mirror and the shutter. If the shutter is operated in Live View mode, the mirror flips down and then up again. All this flipping shakes the camera and thus causes (sometimes significant) vibrations that may seriously compromise the image quality. To reduce the impact of mirror slap, most models come equipped with a special function called mirror lock-up (mirror pre-release). When the mirror lock-up function is enabled, the mirror is flipped up well before the shutter opens (a time interval between 2 and 8 seconds can be selected). This short pause allows the mirror-induced mechanical vibrations to die down before exposing the film so that they do not affect the image quality.





share|improve this answer













In theory, live view mode should ensure the mirror doesn't flip, if you don't use quick mode autofocus.



In practice, though, your camera is a very cheap one, that has probably an integrated shutter/mirror motor, so I assume the mirror actuates the same time the shutter actuates. So, if you use a burst, unfortunately the mirror probably actuates between images in the burst.



Sorry I don't have a source stating the integration of shutter/mirror motor for this particular camera, but at least https://www.lmscope.com/en/Digitalkamera_Vibrationen_en.html says about cheap cameras:




Lower priced SLR cameras generally do not have separate motors that drive the mirror and the shutter. If the shutter is operated in Live View mode, the mirror flips down and then up again. All this flipping shakes the camera and thus causes (sometimes significant) vibrations that may seriously compromise the image quality. To reduce the impact of mirror slap, most models come equipped with a special function called mirror lock-up (mirror pre-release). When the mirror lock-up function is enabled, the mirror is flipped up well before the shutter opens (a time interval between 2 and 8 seconds can be selected). This short pause allows the mirror-induced mechanical vibrations to die down before exposing the film so that they do not affect the image quality.






share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 9 hours ago









juhistjuhist

785113




785113













  • Oh, I forgot to mention that. Yes, the mirror moves between photos in burst mode. I've found nothing in the menu/settings to prevent that. Probably you're right about the motor.

    – vsis
    9 hours ago













  • @vsis Does the mirror cycle between frames even when in Live view (and with AF turned off)?

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago











  • @juhist If the camera is capable of mirror lockup, then it needs separate motors for mirror and shutter. The same is true of any electronically controlled shutter. Your quote is more applicable to many low end film era SLRs than digital bodies. To the best of my knowledge, none of the major manufacturer carried that over into low end digital. Nikon did continue to use the same motor to actuate the mirror and stop down the aperture with the D40 → D3x00 series. But even those models have separate motors for the electronically controlled focal plane shutters.

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago











  • @MichaelC, Yes. It does it in live view, and no autofocus. I use manual mode to take photos with the telescope.

    – vsis
    9 hours ago











  • >Applicable models: all EOS DSLR cameras except for 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D. eos-magazine.com/articles/EOS_feature/camera-mirror-lockup.html @juhist , you were right. This camera can't lock the mirror. So, it's impossible to take a burst without vibrations.

    – vsis
    6 hours ago



















  • Oh, I forgot to mention that. Yes, the mirror moves between photos in burst mode. I've found nothing in the menu/settings to prevent that. Probably you're right about the motor.

    – vsis
    9 hours ago













  • @vsis Does the mirror cycle between frames even when in Live view (and with AF turned off)?

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago











  • @juhist If the camera is capable of mirror lockup, then it needs separate motors for mirror and shutter. The same is true of any electronically controlled shutter. Your quote is more applicable to many low end film era SLRs than digital bodies. To the best of my knowledge, none of the major manufacturer carried that over into low end digital. Nikon did continue to use the same motor to actuate the mirror and stop down the aperture with the D40 → D3x00 series. But even those models have separate motors for the electronically controlled focal plane shutters.

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago











  • @MichaelC, Yes. It does it in live view, and no autofocus. I use manual mode to take photos with the telescope.

    – vsis
    9 hours ago











  • >Applicable models: all EOS DSLR cameras except for 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D. eos-magazine.com/articles/EOS_feature/camera-mirror-lockup.html @juhist , you were right. This camera can't lock the mirror. So, it's impossible to take a burst without vibrations.

    – vsis
    6 hours ago

















Oh, I forgot to mention that. Yes, the mirror moves between photos in burst mode. I've found nothing in the menu/settings to prevent that. Probably you're right about the motor.

– vsis
9 hours ago







Oh, I forgot to mention that. Yes, the mirror moves between photos in burst mode. I've found nothing in the menu/settings to prevent that. Probably you're right about the motor.

– vsis
9 hours ago















@vsis Does the mirror cycle between frames even when in Live view (and with AF turned off)?

– Michael C
9 hours ago





@vsis Does the mirror cycle between frames even when in Live view (and with AF turned off)?

– Michael C
9 hours ago













@juhist If the camera is capable of mirror lockup, then it needs separate motors for mirror and shutter. The same is true of any electronically controlled shutter. Your quote is more applicable to many low end film era SLRs than digital bodies. To the best of my knowledge, none of the major manufacturer carried that over into low end digital. Nikon did continue to use the same motor to actuate the mirror and stop down the aperture with the D40 → D3x00 series. But even those models have separate motors for the electronically controlled focal plane shutters.

– Michael C
9 hours ago





@juhist If the camera is capable of mirror lockup, then it needs separate motors for mirror and shutter. The same is true of any electronically controlled shutter. Your quote is more applicable to many low end film era SLRs than digital bodies. To the best of my knowledge, none of the major manufacturer carried that over into low end digital. Nikon did continue to use the same motor to actuate the mirror and stop down the aperture with the D40 → D3x00 series. But even those models have separate motors for the electronically controlled focal plane shutters.

– Michael C
9 hours ago













@MichaelC, Yes. It does it in live view, and no autofocus. I use manual mode to take photos with the telescope.

– vsis
9 hours ago





@MichaelC, Yes. It does it in live view, and no autofocus. I use manual mode to take photos with the telescope.

– vsis
9 hours ago













>Applicable models: all EOS DSLR cameras except for 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D. eos-magazine.com/articles/EOS_feature/camera-mirror-lockup.html @juhist , you were right. This camera can't lock the mirror. So, it's impossible to take a burst without vibrations.

– vsis
6 hours ago





>Applicable models: all EOS DSLR cameras except for 1000D, 1100D, 1200D, 1300D. eos-magazine.com/articles/EOS_feature/camera-mirror-lockup.html @juhist , you were right. This camera can't lock the mirror. So, it's impossible to take a burst without vibrations.

– vsis
6 hours ago













5















If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.




Typically, the order of operations is: mirror flips, shutter opens. This is regardless of shooting mode. Using Live View or Mirror Lock-Up changes the rules a bit and takes the mirror flip out of the equation, but the shutter is still there.




Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.




This is the shutter. If you want to have the absolute minimum amount of vibration, you need to:




  • Use single shot mode

  • Use Mirror Lock Up

  • Have a rock solid tripod

  • Use a remote shutter release

  • Hit the shutter release for the mirror to flip and wait a few seconds

  • Release the shutter to take the shot


If this single pass of the shutter opening and closing is causing you to have camera shake, then you may want to look into a different camera, one that has an electronic shutter instead of a mechanical one.






share|improve this answer


























  • Well, currently I'm using single shot mode and shutter timer, until I have a remote shutter control. So I don't have motion blur in that way, although it takes its time to take, for example, 500 photos of Jupiter. Because of that, it would be nice to have more photos in less time, without compromising quality.

    – vsis
    9 hours ago











  • @Hueco That's what you get for buying superb analog gear! ;)

    – flolilo
    9 hours ago











  • @vsis Forgive me the question, but why do you need 500 pictures of Jupiter? I would take 1, perhaps two, then check them, and if they are good enough, I would stop (at least until Jupiter and/or its atmosphere had sufficient time to move around a bit). To me, making 500 (or even 20, for that matter) roughly identical shots of some (roughly) inanimate object seems like overkill in post-production.

    – flolilo
    9 hours ago











  • @flolilo DR is very much an issue in astrophotography if one wants to preserve the different colors of different stars.

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago






  • 1





    @vsis ah, your question wasn't clear to me before. So, you are needing to take how many images within what sort of timeframe?

    – Hueco
    9 hours ago
















5















If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.




Typically, the order of operations is: mirror flips, shutter opens. This is regardless of shooting mode. Using Live View or Mirror Lock-Up changes the rules a bit and takes the mirror flip out of the equation, but the shutter is still there.




Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.




This is the shutter. If you want to have the absolute minimum amount of vibration, you need to:




  • Use single shot mode

  • Use Mirror Lock Up

  • Have a rock solid tripod

  • Use a remote shutter release

  • Hit the shutter release for the mirror to flip and wait a few seconds

  • Release the shutter to take the shot


If this single pass of the shutter opening and closing is causing you to have camera shake, then you may want to look into a different camera, one that has an electronic shutter instead of a mechanical one.






share|improve this answer


























  • Well, currently I'm using single shot mode and shutter timer, until I have a remote shutter control. So I don't have motion blur in that way, although it takes its time to take, for example, 500 photos of Jupiter. Because of that, it would be nice to have more photos in less time, without compromising quality.

    – vsis
    9 hours ago











  • @Hueco That's what you get for buying superb analog gear! ;)

    – flolilo
    9 hours ago











  • @vsis Forgive me the question, but why do you need 500 pictures of Jupiter? I would take 1, perhaps two, then check them, and if they are good enough, I would stop (at least until Jupiter and/or its atmosphere had sufficient time to move around a bit). To me, making 500 (or even 20, for that matter) roughly identical shots of some (roughly) inanimate object seems like overkill in post-production.

    – flolilo
    9 hours ago











  • @flolilo DR is very much an issue in astrophotography if one wants to preserve the different colors of different stars.

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago






  • 1





    @vsis ah, your question wasn't clear to me before. So, you are needing to take how many images within what sort of timeframe?

    – Hueco
    9 hours ago














5












5








5








If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.




Typically, the order of operations is: mirror flips, shutter opens. This is regardless of shooting mode. Using Live View or Mirror Lock-Up changes the rules a bit and takes the mirror flip out of the equation, but the shutter is still there.




Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.




This is the shutter. If you want to have the absolute minimum amount of vibration, you need to:




  • Use single shot mode

  • Use Mirror Lock Up

  • Have a rock solid tripod

  • Use a remote shutter release

  • Hit the shutter release for the mirror to flip and wait a few seconds

  • Release the shutter to take the shot


If this single pass of the shutter opening and closing is causing you to have camera shake, then you may want to look into a different camera, one that has an electronic shutter instead of a mechanical one.






share|improve this answer
















If I use burst mode, camera starts moving its mechanical parts: the mirror, or the shutter, or both. I don't know exactly.




Typically, the order of operations is: mirror flips, shutter opens. This is regardless of shooting mode. Using Live View or Mirror Lock-Up changes the rules a bit and takes the mirror flip out of the equation, but the shutter is still there.




Even if I lock the mirror up, and display image on the screen, when I press the shutter button, it stats moving some mechanical parts and producing vibrations.




This is the shutter. If you want to have the absolute minimum amount of vibration, you need to:




  • Use single shot mode

  • Use Mirror Lock Up

  • Have a rock solid tripod

  • Use a remote shutter release

  • Hit the shutter release for the mirror to flip and wait a few seconds

  • Release the shutter to take the shot


If this single pass of the shutter opening and closing is causing you to have camera shake, then you may want to look into a different camera, one that has an electronic shutter instead of a mechanical one.







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited 9 hours ago

























answered 10 hours ago









HuecoHueco

12k32857




12k32857













  • Well, currently I'm using single shot mode and shutter timer, until I have a remote shutter control. So I don't have motion blur in that way, although it takes its time to take, for example, 500 photos of Jupiter. Because of that, it would be nice to have more photos in less time, without compromising quality.

    – vsis
    9 hours ago











  • @Hueco That's what you get for buying superb analog gear! ;)

    – flolilo
    9 hours ago











  • @vsis Forgive me the question, but why do you need 500 pictures of Jupiter? I would take 1, perhaps two, then check them, and if they are good enough, I would stop (at least until Jupiter and/or its atmosphere had sufficient time to move around a bit). To me, making 500 (or even 20, for that matter) roughly identical shots of some (roughly) inanimate object seems like overkill in post-production.

    – flolilo
    9 hours ago











  • @flolilo DR is very much an issue in astrophotography if one wants to preserve the different colors of different stars.

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago






  • 1





    @vsis ah, your question wasn't clear to me before. So, you are needing to take how many images within what sort of timeframe?

    – Hueco
    9 hours ago



















  • Well, currently I'm using single shot mode and shutter timer, until I have a remote shutter control. So I don't have motion blur in that way, although it takes its time to take, for example, 500 photos of Jupiter. Because of that, it would be nice to have more photos in less time, without compromising quality.

    – vsis
    9 hours ago











  • @Hueco That's what you get for buying superb analog gear! ;)

    – flolilo
    9 hours ago











  • @vsis Forgive me the question, but why do you need 500 pictures of Jupiter? I would take 1, perhaps two, then check them, and if they are good enough, I would stop (at least until Jupiter and/or its atmosphere had sufficient time to move around a bit). To me, making 500 (or even 20, for that matter) roughly identical shots of some (roughly) inanimate object seems like overkill in post-production.

    – flolilo
    9 hours ago











  • @flolilo DR is very much an issue in astrophotography if one wants to preserve the different colors of different stars.

    – Michael C
    9 hours ago






  • 1





    @vsis ah, your question wasn't clear to me before. So, you are needing to take how many images within what sort of timeframe?

    – Hueco
    9 hours ago

















Well, currently I'm using single shot mode and shutter timer, until I have a remote shutter control. So I don't have motion blur in that way, although it takes its time to take, for example, 500 photos of Jupiter. Because of that, it would be nice to have more photos in less time, without compromising quality.

– vsis
9 hours ago





Well, currently I'm using single shot mode and shutter timer, until I have a remote shutter control. So I don't have motion blur in that way, although it takes its time to take, for example, 500 photos of Jupiter. Because of that, it would be nice to have more photos in less time, without compromising quality.

– vsis
9 hours ago













@Hueco That's what you get for buying superb analog gear! ;)

– flolilo
9 hours ago





@Hueco That's what you get for buying superb analog gear! ;)

– flolilo
9 hours ago













@vsis Forgive me the question, but why do you need 500 pictures of Jupiter? I would take 1, perhaps two, then check them, and if they are good enough, I would stop (at least until Jupiter and/or its atmosphere had sufficient time to move around a bit). To me, making 500 (or even 20, for that matter) roughly identical shots of some (roughly) inanimate object seems like overkill in post-production.

– flolilo
9 hours ago





@vsis Forgive me the question, but why do you need 500 pictures of Jupiter? I would take 1, perhaps two, then check them, and if they are good enough, I would stop (at least until Jupiter and/or its atmosphere had sufficient time to move around a bit). To me, making 500 (or even 20, for that matter) roughly identical shots of some (roughly) inanimate object seems like overkill in post-production.

– flolilo
9 hours ago













@flolilo DR is very much an issue in astrophotography if one wants to preserve the different colors of different stars.

– Michael C
9 hours ago





@flolilo DR is very much an issue in astrophotography if one wants to preserve the different colors of different stars.

– Michael C
9 hours ago




1




1





@vsis ah, your question wasn't clear to me before. So, you are needing to take how many images within what sort of timeframe?

– Hueco
9 hours ago





@vsis ah, your question wasn't clear to me before. So, you are needing to take how many images within what sort of timeframe?

– Hueco
9 hours ago










vsis is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.










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vsis is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.












vsis is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
















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