What to do with post with dry rot?
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We’re getting ready to paint and I was checking around my porch. There are three columns that support the roof over my porch. One of them had a decorative cross member that was dislodged because of dry rot at the location where the cross member was nailed to the column. I saw some dry rot there and started to excavate the rot.
Here are some pictures of the bottom of the post. It has a small amount of concrete around the posts. The post goes into the concrete an inch or two deep.
What should I do about this. I think that since there are two others columns supporting the porch roof this one with the rotted base didn’t really affect the general load bearing aspect.
How should I fix this? Just add a lot of bondo, or wood filler, et.
Take the post out and put in a new one? (I don’t want to do this bc I would need to take out all he decorative cross beams.
Cut out the old wood base and graft on a nicer/new to replace the big sections. That we cut out.
dry-rot
add a comment |
We’re getting ready to paint and I was checking around my porch. There are three columns that support the roof over my porch. One of them had a decorative cross member that was dislodged because of dry rot at the location where the cross member was nailed to the column. I saw some dry rot there and started to excavate the rot.
Here are some pictures of the bottom of the post. It has a small amount of concrete around the posts. The post goes into the concrete an inch or two deep.
What should I do about this. I think that since there are two others columns supporting the porch roof this one with the rotted base didn’t really affect the general load bearing aspect.
How should I fix this? Just add a lot of bondo, or wood filler, et.
Take the post out and put in a new one? (I don’t want to do this bc I would need to take out all he decorative cross beams.
Cut out the old wood base and graft on a nicer/new to replace the big sections. That we cut out.
dry-rot
1
Hopefully you have checked the other posts (or will) for similar problems...
– Jimmy Fix-it
13 hours ago
add a comment |
We’re getting ready to paint and I was checking around my porch. There are three columns that support the roof over my porch. One of them had a decorative cross member that was dislodged because of dry rot at the location where the cross member was nailed to the column. I saw some dry rot there and started to excavate the rot.
Here are some pictures of the bottom of the post. It has a small amount of concrete around the posts. The post goes into the concrete an inch or two deep.
What should I do about this. I think that since there are two others columns supporting the porch roof this one with the rotted base didn’t really affect the general load bearing aspect.
How should I fix this? Just add a lot of bondo, or wood filler, et.
Take the post out and put in a new one? (I don’t want to do this bc I would need to take out all he decorative cross beams.
Cut out the old wood base and graft on a nicer/new to replace the big sections. That we cut out.
dry-rot
We’re getting ready to paint and I was checking around my porch. There are three columns that support the roof over my porch. One of them had a decorative cross member that was dislodged because of dry rot at the location where the cross member was nailed to the column. I saw some dry rot there and started to excavate the rot.
Here are some pictures of the bottom of the post. It has a small amount of concrete around the posts. The post goes into the concrete an inch or two deep.
What should I do about this. I think that since there are two others columns supporting the porch roof this one with the rotted base didn’t really affect the general load bearing aspect.
How should I fix this? Just add a lot of bondo, or wood filler, et.
Take the post out and put in a new one? (I don’t want to do this bc I would need to take out all he decorative cross beams.
Cut out the old wood base and graft on a nicer/new to replace the big sections. That we cut out.
dry-rot
dry-rot
asked 21 hours ago
milesmeowmilesmeow
2,239124778
2,239124778
1
Hopefully you have checked the other posts (or will) for similar problems...
– Jimmy Fix-it
13 hours ago
add a comment |
1
Hopefully you have checked the other posts (or will) for similar problems...
– Jimmy Fix-it
13 hours ago
1
1
Hopefully you have checked the other posts (or will) for similar problems...
– Jimmy Fix-it
13 hours ago
Hopefully you have checked the other posts (or will) for similar problems...
– Jimmy Fix-it
13 hours ago
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
Are you sure about the load bearing? It may sag if you are not careful...
Anyway either replace the post completely or make a replacement bottom section and support the rest of the structure - acrow jacks work well for this type of thing.
This is one example of a supplier of acrow jacks - many others... :
https://www.scaffolding-direct.co.uk/new-size-3-acrow-prop-2-4m-4m/
add a comment |
The post should really be replaced, at the least add a new bottom utilizing a structural splice
The issue with the structural splice, the new post section will not be the same dimension as the original, and will be quite noticeable. With a new post, it still may not be the same, but it will not be a noticeable as the splice.
Another way to do it is to either have a post custom cut to the size of the original.
Just a mention, it is wise to inspect the other posts at the very bottom. The post pictured since it is in the concrete a bit, the others will be too? The concern is the concrete or actually a course of brick pavers added after the posts were set, made a pocket to hold water which allowed the wood to rot most likely sooner rather than later.
Yes the other posts are in concrete too. They don’t seem to have any dry rot. What is the best way to check without damaging the posts. Just drill a hole?
– milesmeow
12 hours ago
The screwdriver you were using would work on the worst spots by trying to insert it a the bottom were the post meets the concrete. An ice pick, scratch awl or another screwdriver that has a smaller blade will work too. If it sinks in easy, those posts would need repair as well. Drilling a hole would go in easy in any case, since it displaces the wood. It would give an idea still. The methods I mention above would need to separate the wood, which should be much more difficult to do.
– Jack
12 hours ago
1
What about tapping for sound? If it sounds more hollow or less dense at the base that would be the first indication and then I would use an awl or ice pick.
– milesmeow
11 hours ago
Just watched this video about splicing. youtu.be/s6naaDBrZSc
– milesmeow
11 hours ago
1
Before you install the replacement piece, place the bottom end in a bucket with about 2 inches of the best wood preservative you can find (alas, the good ones have been pulled from the market) and let it soak for several hours.
– Hot Licks
8 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
Take as much of the rotten bits out.
Soak/spray 2 or 3 times the inside with an epoxy slow hardening paint,
let it harden pref a few days,
fill up the hole with a slow polyester selfmixing anchoring cartridge and similar wood
If you want to see the wood and not polyester, use the same wood 45°routed on the front.
Epoxy spray the parts that will be in contact with the resin.
Covering the wood with epoxy spray is because the polyester resin will be soaked up into the wood leaving the filler not to spec.
I use:
http://www.ramset.com.au/Resources/Website/Product/Detail/img714p31.jpg
Make sure everything fits before mucking around with the poly
In the olden days i used old drained motor oil. 30 years on, the cheap pine still looks ugly and smelly but in good shape in the Netherlands
New contributor
add a comment |
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
Are you sure about the load bearing? It may sag if you are not careful...
Anyway either replace the post completely or make a replacement bottom section and support the rest of the structure - acrow jacks work well for this type of thing.
This is one example of a supplier of acrow jacks - many others... :
https://www.scaffolding-direct.co.uk/new-size-3-acrow-prop-2-4m-4m/
add a comment |
Are you sure about the load bearing? It may sag if you are not careful...
Anyway either replace the post completely or make a replacement bottom section and support the rest of the structure - acrow jacks work well for this type of thing.
This is one example of a supplier of acrow jacks - many others... :
https://www.scaffolding-direct.co.uk/new-size-3-acrow-prop-2-4m-4m/
add a comment |
Are you sure about the load bearing? It may sag if you are not careful...
Anyway either replace the post completely or make a replacement bottom section and support the rest of the structure - acrow jacks work well for this type of thing.
This is one example of a supplier of acrow jacks - many others... :
https://www.scaffolding-direct.co.uk/new-size-3-acrow-prop-2-4m-4m/
Are you sure about the load bearing? It may sag if you are not careful...
Anyway either replace the post completely or make a replacement bottom section and support the rest of the structure - acrow jacks work well for this type of thing.
This is one example of a supplier of acrow jacks - many others... :
https://www.scaffolding-direct.co.uk/new-size-3-acrow-prop-2-4m-4m/
edited 19 hours ago
answered 20 hours ago
Solar MikeSolar Mike
1,30329
1,30329
add a comment |
add a comment |
The post should really be replaced, at the least add a new bottom utilizing a structural splice
The issue with the structural splice, the new post section will not be the same dimension as the original, and will be quite noticeable. With a new post, it still may not be the same, but it will not be a noticeable as the splice.
Another way to do it is to either have a post custom cut to the size of the original.
Just a mention, it is wise to inspect the other posts at the very bottom. The post pictured since it is in the concrete a bit, the others will be too? The concern is the concrete or actually a course of brick pavers added after the posts were set, made a pocket to hold water which allowed the wood to rot most likely sooner rather than later.
Yes the other posts are in concrete too. They don’t seem to have any dry rot. What is the best way to check without damaging the posts. Just drill a hole?
– milesmeow
12 hours ago
The screwdriver you were using would work on the worst spots by trying to insert it a the bottom were the post meets the concrete. An ice pick, scratch awl or another screwdriver that has a smaller blade will work too. If it sinks in easy, those posts would need repair as well. Drilling a hole would go in easy in any case, since it displaces the wood. It would give an idea still. The methods I mention above would need to separate the wood, which should be much more difficult to do.
– Jack
12 hours ago
1
What about tapping for sound? If it sounds more hollow or less dense at the base that would be the first indication and then I would use an awl or ice pick.
– milesmeow
11 hours ago
Just watched this video about splicing. youtu.be/s6naaDBrZSc
– milesmeow
11 hours ago
1
Before you install the replacement piece, place the bottom end in a bucket with about 2 inches of the best wood preservative you can find (alas, the good ones have been pulled from the market) and let it soak for several hours.
– Hot Licks
8 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
The post should really be replaced, at the least add a new bottom utilizing a structural splice
The issue with the structural splice, the new post section will not be the same dimension as the original, and will be quite noticeable. With a new post, it still may not be the same, but it will not be a noticeable as the splice.
Another way to do it is to either have a post custom cut to the size of the original.
Just a mention, it is wise to inspect the other posts at the very bottom. The post pictured since it is in the concrete a bit, the others will be too? The concern is the concrete or actually a course of brick pavers added after the posts were set, made a pocket to hold water which allowed the wood to rot most likely sooner rather than later.
Yes the other posts are in concrete too. They don’t seem to have any dry rot. What is the best way to check without damaging the posts. Just drill a hole?
– milesmeow
12 hours ago
The screwdriver you were using would work on the worst spots by trying to insert it a the bottom were the post meets the concrete. An ice pick, scratch awl or another screwdriver that has a smaller blade will work too. If it sinks in easy, those posts would need repair as well. Drilling a hole would go in easy in any case, since it displaces the wood. It would give an idea still. The methods I mention above would need to separate the wood, which should be much more difficult to do.
– Jack
12 hours ago
1
What about tapping for sound? If it sounds more hollow or less dense at the base that would be the first indication and then I would use an awl or ice pick.
– milesmeow
11 hours ago
Just watched this video about splicing. youtu.be/s6naaDBrZSc
– milesmeow
11 hours ago
1
Before you install the replacement piece, place the bottom end in a bucket with about 2 inches of the best wood preservative you can find (alas, the good ones have been pulled from the market) and let it soak for several hours.
– Hot Licks
8 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
The post should really be replaced, at the least add a new bottom utilizing a structural splice
The issue with the structural splice, the new post section will not be the same dimension as the original, and will be quite noticeable. With a new post, it still may not be the same, but it will not be a noticeable as the splice.
Another way to do it is to either have a post custom cut to the size of the original.
Just a mention, it is wise to inspect the other posts at the very bottom. The post pictured since it is in the concrete a bit, the others will be too? The concern is the concrete or actually a course of brick pavers added after the posts were set, made a pocket to hold water which allowed the wood to rot most likely sooner rather than later.
The post should really be replaced, at the least add a new bottom utilizing a structural splice
The issue with the structural splice, the new post section will not be the same dimension as the original, and will be quite noticeable. With a new post, it still may not be the same, but it will not be a noticeable as the splice.
Another way to do it is to either have a post custom cut to the size of the original.
Just a mention, it is wise to inspect the other posts at the very bottom. The post pictured since it is in the concrete a bit, the others will be too? The concern is the concrete or actually a course of brick pavers added after the posts were set, made a pocket to hold water which allowed the wood to rot most likely sooner rather than later.
answered 12 hours ago
JackJack
20.6k11336
20.6k11336
Yes the other posts are in concrete too. They don’t seem to have any dry rot. What is the best way to check without damaging the posts. Just drill a hole?
– milesmeow
12 hours ago
The screwdriver you were using would work on the worst spots by trying to insert it a the bottom were the post meets the concrete. An ice pick, scratch awl or another screwdriver that has a smaller blade will work too. If it sinks in easy, those posts would need repair as well. Drilling a hole would go in easy in any case, since it displaces the wood. It would give an idea still. The methods I mention above would need to separate the wood, which should be much more difficult to do.
– Jack
12 hours ago
1
What about tapping for sound? If it sounds more hollow or less dense at the base that would be the first indication and then I would use an awl or ice pick.
– milesmeow
11 hours ago
Just watched this video about splicing. youtu.be/s6naaDBrZSc
– milesmeow
11 hours ago
1
Before you install the replacement piece, place the bottom end in a bucket with about 2 inches of the best wood preservative you can find (alas, the good ones have been pulled from the market) and let it soak for several hours.
– Hot Licks
8 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
Yes the other posts are in concrete too. They don’t seem to have any dry rot. What is the best way to check without damaging the posts. Just drill a hole?
– milesmeow
12 hours ago
The screwdriver you were using would work on the worst spots by trying to insert it a the bottom were the post meets the concrete. An ice pick, scratch awl or another screwdriver that has a smaller blade will work too. If it sinks in easy, those posts would need repair as well. Drilling a hole would go in easy in any case, since it displaces the wood. It would give an idea still. The methods I mention above would need to separate the wood, which should be much more difficult to do.
– Jack
12 hours ago
1
What about tapping for sound? If it sounds more hollow or less dense at the base that would be the first indication and then I would use an awl or ice pick.
– milesmeow
11 hours ago
Just watched this video about splicing. youtu.be/s6naaDBrZSc
– milesmeow
11 hours ago
1
Before you install the replacement piece, place the bottom end in a bucket with about 2 inches of the best wood preservative you can find (alas, the good ones have been pulled from the market) and let it soak for several hours.
– Hot Licks
8 hours ago
Yes the other posts are in concrete too. They don’t seem to have any dry rot. What is the best way to check without damaging the posts. Just drill a hole?
– milesmeow
12 hours ago
Yes the other posts are in concrete too. They don’t seem to have any dry rot. What is the best way to check without damaging the posts. Just drill a hole?
– milesmeow
12 hours ago
The screwdriver you were using would work on the worst spots by trying to insert it a the bottom were the post meets the concrete. An ice pick, scratch awl or another screwdriver that has a smaller blade will work too. If it sinks in easy, those posts would need repair as well. Drilling a hole would go in easy in any case, since it displaces the wood. It would give an idea still. The methods I mention above would need to separate the wood, which should be much more difficult to do.
– Jack
12 hours ago
The screwdriver you were using would work on the worst spots by trying to insert it a the bottom were the post meets the concrete. An ice pick, scratch awl or another screwdriver that has a smaller blade will work too. If it sinks in easy, those posts would need repair as well. Drilling a hole would go in easy in any case, since it displaces the wood. It would give an idea still. The methods I mention above would need to separate the wood, which should be much more difficult to do.
– Jack
12 hours ago
1
1
What about tapping for sound? If it sounds more hollow or less dense at the base that would be the first indication and then I would use an awl or ice pick.
– milesmeow
11 hours ago
What about tapping for sound? If it sounds more hollow or less dense at the base that would be the first indication and then I would use an awl or ice pick.
– milesmeow
11 hours ago
Just watched this video about splicing. youtu.be/s6naaDBrZSc
– milesmeow
11 hours ago
Just watched this video about splicing. youtu.be/s6naaDBrZSc
– milesmeow
11 hours ago
1
1
Before you install the replacement piece, place the bottom end in a bucket with about 2 inches of the best wood preservative you can find (alas, the good ones have been pulled from the market) and let it soak for several hours.
– Hot Licks
8 hours ago
Before you install the replacement piece, place the bottom end in a bucket with about 2 inches of the best wood preservative you can find (alas, the good ones have been pulled from the market) and let it soak for several hours.
– Hot Licks
8 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
Take as much of the rotten bits out.
Soak/spray 2 or 3 times the inside with an epoxy slow hardening paint,
let it harden pref a few days,
fill up the hole with a slow polyester selfmixing anchoring cartridge and similar wood
If you want to see the wood and not polyester, use the same wood 45°routed on the front.
Epoxy spray the parts that will be in contact with the resin.
Covering the wood with epoxy spray is because the polyester resin will be soaked up into the wood leaving the filler not to spec.
I use:
http://www.ramset.com.au/Resources/Website/Product/Detail/img714p31.jpg
Make sure everything fits before mucking around with the poly
In the olden days i used old drained motor oil. 30 years on, the cheap pine still looks ugly and smelly but in good shape in the Netherlands
New contributor
add a comment |
Take as much of the rotten bits out.
Soak/spray 2 or 3 times the inside with an epoxy slow hardening paint,
let it harden pref a few days,
fill up the hole with a slow polyester selfmixing anchoring cartridge and similar wood
If you want to see the wood and not polyester, use the same wood 45°routed on the front.
Epoxy spray the parts that will be in contact with the resin.
Covering the wood with epoxy spray is because the polyester resin will be soaked up into the wood leaving the filler not to spec.
I use:
http://www.ramset.com.au/Resources/Website/Product/Detail/img714p31.jpg
Make sure everything fits before mucking around with the poly
In the olden days i used old drained motor oil. 30 years on, the cheap pine still looks ugly and smelly but in good shape in the Netherlands
New contributor
add a comment |
Take as much of the rotten bits out.
Soak/spray 2 or 3 times the inside with an epoxy slow hardening paint,
let it harden pref a few days,
fill up the hole with a slow polyester selfmixing anchoring cartridge and similar wood
If you want to see the wood and not polyester, use the same wood 45°routed on the front.
Epoxy spray the parts that will be in contact with the resin.
Covering the wood with epoxy spray is because the polyester resin will be soaked up into the wood leaving the filler not to spec.
I use:
http://www.ramset.com.au/Resources/Website/Product/Detail/img714p31.jpg
Make sure everything fits before mucking around with the poly
In the olden days i used old drained motor oil. 30 years on, the cheap pine still looks ugly and smelly but in good shape in the Netherlands
New contributor
Take as much of the rotten bits out.
Soak/spray 2 or 3 times the inside with an epoxy slow hardening paint,
let it harden pref a few days,
fill up the hole with a slow polyester selfmixing anchoring cartridge and similar wood
If you want to see the wood and not polyester, use the same wood 45°routed on the front.
Epoxy spray the parts that will be in contact with the resin.
Covering the wood with epoxy spray is because the polyester resin will be soaked up into the wood leaving the filler not to spec.
I use:
http://www.ramset.com.au/Resources/Website/Product/Detail/img714p31.jpg
Make sure everything fits before mucking around with the poly
In the olden days i used old drained motor oil. 30 years on, the cheap pine still looks ugly and smelly but in good shape in the Netherlands
New contributor
New contributor
answered 3 hours ago
PeterPeter
1
1
New contributor
New contributor
add a comment |
add a comment |
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1
Hopefully you have checked the other posts (or will) for similar problems...
– Jimmy Fix-it
13 hours ago